Italy

Giorgia Meloni’s Italian renaissance

9 August 2025 9:00 am

Rome Last weekend, Rome hosted nearly a million young pilgrims to celebrate the Papal Jubilee of Youth. Part Woodstock festival,…

To rehydrate, drink beer

28 June 2025 9:00 am

‘The nuisance of the tropics is/the sheer necessity of fizz.’  Over the past few days, during which England endured sub-tropical…

My daring escape from the Italian police

28 June 2025 9:00 am

Dante’s Beach, Ravenna I often feel as if I know what it was like to be a member of La…

The wolf as symbol of European anxieties

28 June 2025 9:00 am

This ‘amoral outcast’ and its thieving trickery is now widely equated with the economic migrant, slipping across borders unnoticed and threatening the status quo

Venice deserves Jeff Bezos

21 June 2025 9:00 am

Venetians are once again revolting. Not, this time, against cruise ships, wheeled luggage, over-tourism or rule from mainland Mestre. No…

The lure of St James’s

14 June 2025 9:00 am

Procrastination may be the thief of time, but in the right circumstances, it can be fun. The other day, I…

The past is another country: Ripeness, by Sarah Moss, reviewed

14 June 2025 9:00 am

The voice of teenage Edith caring for her pregnant sister in Italy alternates with that of her elderly self in contemporary Ireland in a story of identity, belonging and consent

No, I’m not a British spy

7 June 2025 9:00 am

Dante’s Beach, Ravenna The youngest of our six children, Giuseppe, nine, received the Eucharist for the first time on Sunday.…

The loveliness of Ligurian wine

31 May 2025 9:00 am

We were talking about Italy: where and when to sojourn. I confessed to so many gaps. It is years since…

‘I secreted a venom which spurted out indiscriminately’ – Muriel Spark

31 May 2025 9:00 am

Frances Wilson’s mesmerising biography of one of the past century’s most singular writers is especially enlightening on the ‘domestic savagery’ often required of a great artist

The world reveres British music

19 April 2025 9:00 am

I have just returned from the lovely Italian city of Rimini, where 300 local singers had gathered for a weekend…

Vindictive to the last: a Nazi atrocity in Tuscany

12 April 2025 9:00 am

Even in retreat in August 1944, a German posse carried out a particularly brutal triple murder at a hillside farm outside Florence in a vendetta against the Einstein family

In search of Pico della Mirandola, the quintessential Renaissance Man

15 February 2025 9:00 am

Though the scholar himself remains an enigma, his theories about language as a portal to the divine are explored in depth by Edward Wilson-Lee

If Meloni is ‘far right’, why are neo-Nazis trying to kill her?

9 December 2024 11:24 pm

Dante’s Beach, Ravenna Italian police have arrested 12 alleged terrorists who are accused of plotting a Day of the Jackal…

The medicinal powers of a good book

26 October 2024 9:00 am

‘And they lived happily ever after. The end.’ ‘Again.’ My poor father, bidden to read the story of the moment…

Meloni’s migration strategy is working – and the rest of Europe is watching

19 October 2024 9:00 am

Giorgia Meloni, Italy’s first female Prime Minister, has this week achieved what the Tories failed so fatally to do with…

Should I grow old gracefully – or disgracefully?

28 September 2024 9:00 am

Now that I’m about to turn 70, I’m wondering: shall I grow old gracefully, or disgracefully? Everyone I know, young…

A visit to the world’s worst capital city

27 July 2024 9:00 am

Nouakchott in Mauritania is often referred to as the ‘worst capital city in the world’. That may be a little…

Italians are beautiful – but not on this beach

29 June 2024 9:00 am

When Pope Francis complained recently about too much frociaggine (faggotry) in the Catholic Church, he certainly struck a chord in…

Pure Puccini: an opera lover’s melodramatic family history

29 June 2024 9:00 am

Flamboyant theatrics were part of Michael Volpe’s life as CEO of Opera Holland Park. But those of his feuding Italian relatives rival anything seen on stage

Admit it – Italian food is rubbish

25 May 2024 9:00 am

Every year I’m summoned to a gathering which I strive to avoid. My first cousin, who loves a boozy party,…

Giorgia Meloni’s opponents are becoming hysterical

4 May 2024 4:00 pm

Like drowning men clutching at straws, Giorgia Meloni’s opponents are trying ever more hopelessly to justify their claim that she is a…

My life of genteel poverty

13 April 2024 9:00 am

Every year at the beginning of April, I tell myself I must top up my Isa before the 5 April…

Under the Italian sun, the insects are stirring

6 April 2024 9:00 am

The sun was setting on the first day of spring and I felt unusually happy as I fed the donkey.…